Badger Divide… The Return

I think it’s important to start with some background…. I ‘failed’ the Badger first time round! In 2023 me and a mate attempted to ride the Badger Divide, a Scottish Bikepacking institution, in April and never got past Corrour. An overnight stay in the Youth Hostel at Loch Ossian and the train back to Glasgow was the decision, mostly down to my inability to ‘feel right’ after a big second day in the saddle (I think Corriyarrick Pass was the straw). This year we decided to try taming the Badger again and there were certainly some internal demons to put to rest.

The Train from Glasgow to Inverness was booked a bit later than attempt #1, May 1st. Hopefully the weather would be kind. Myself and Neil drove up early on the Wednesday, bikes loaded and ready to roll out once we parked in Glasgow.

With experience under our belt I think we both had a much better idea of packing, I don’t think I did to bad for attempt #1, but felt much better this time round. There were a few key bits of gear that I think made the difference – Water filter: I struggled for fluids during attempt 1, having the ability to siphon some water from most water spots took a massive worry away. Bike bags: it wasn’t that I didn’t manage to get everything on the bike for attempt 1, but more the efficiency of what I was using. The team at Restrap kindly let me use some of their gear. From the minute I put them on, I could tell the difference. I used a Bar Bag (large), Saddle Bag (14ltrs), Frame bag (large). I took my one-man tent, sleeping bag, airbed, extra clothes, food, cooking gear, camera (which sat in the extra bag on the bar bag), plus all the usual extras for a multi-day trip.

After an easy day one to a camp site along Loch Ness our first big challenge was to get to the point we got to in attempt 1, Corrour station. We knew what to expect over the first 150km, although the stunning (and tough) Great Glen Way was new to us (we missed it on attempt 1) and a good introduction to climbing fully loaded.

I knew we had the formidable Corriyarrick Pass to get over, which 2nd time round didn’t feel any easier. We also couldn’t wait to see some of the landscapes we’d rode through in attempt 1. I really feel like some of the parcours across the first 150km are truly beautiful. The 2 Lochs you roll along as you head towards Loch Laggan are probably my favourite spots on the route. As the 2nd day drew to a close, we managed to find a beach spot to camp on night 2 at the end of Loch Laggan, a picture-perfect pitch.

This meant day 3 was a roll up to Corrour station for some late breakfast (and a pint) and then into the unknown. Before we rolled out from the station I had to deal with some gearing issues I’d started to have. The upshot of me not working out the issue was I had to now ride in a single gear to avoid my chain falling off the front ring (bent tooth). As hard as pedalling a bit, walking a bit was, the ‘Road to the Isles’ and Rannoch Moor was epic. I don’t think I’ve ever seen moorland so big.

We rolled through the landscape aiming for somewhere around Glen Lyon Post Office (like a Hobbit, always thinking about food). On the descent into Innerwick we crossed paths with an American cyclist following the GBDURO route, South to North. I always feel sheepish when I meet people like this, solo rider, from a different country, riding over 2000km, puts my 2nd go at Badger into perspective. A great night at a picnic spot made for an early roll towards breakfast at Glen Lyon, which was unfortunately not open until 10am, cereal bar it was then we head up the Glen and on to Killin for some resupply and food.

I spent far too long here trying to fix the bike, calling friends to pick their brains, bought a new chain, but still no joy. Hands black from the chain and a belly full of cake, we headed onwards (still in one gear). Now, I don’t complain about many things, I’m a pretty optimistic, but the climb out of Killin, up into the forest I could have done without… I swore at the climb so many times, even with gears this is a shit kicker! The remainder of the day saw us roll down to Lochearnhead and through to Callander, where we opted for a comfy night in a cheap hotel (the shower was a real treat). A few beers in the local to talk about what we’d done so far before heading back to ‘camp’.

In the morning I headed out to a local Bike shop, ‘Wheels’ where the wonderful Mark helped identify the bent tooth, with a bit of persuasion he realigned and I was back in the gears game! Onwards and up Duke’s Pass before a roll all the way into Glasgow (not before a very expensive can of Iron Bru on the outskirts, I think the term is fleeced!).

Back at the van it quickly dawned on me that was the end, no more Badger to ride, as pleased as I was to have completed it, I did wish I was still riding single speed across Rannoch Moor or sat outside Glen Lyon post Office deciding if they’d open just for us. In fact I mentioned to Neil ‘I wonder what the Second City Divide route is like… that takes us back Manchester!!’. May be next time, but I’m not doing Corriyarrick again!

Words and photos by Dan Monaghan (@cadenceimages)